My cinematic GoPro 12 Settings (MTB & MX)

These are the exact settings I use to make my Downhill Mountain Bike POV videos for the Suspension Traveler Youtube channel! In fact, 3 setting presets to choose from.

Let’s start off with the overall best GoPro Hero 12 settings with the most reliable, high-quality results – the preset I always use for my own videos:

This preset will work in pretty much any daytime scenario – getting you the best video quality, crisp image even in difficult, changing lighting conditions like going in and out of tree cover during sunshine.

For even more improved stabilization in low light, check out my guide on how to set shutter speed limits on your GoPro.

If you don’t want to mess around, here are just the most important beginner settings you must get right:

These will work well in any lighting condition, keeping footage stable and colors popping straight out of the camera without any editing required.

ND Filter settings

ND filters are notorious for destroying any stabilization in order to get some cinematic motion blur.
Not with these settings!

I found specific shutter speeds that allow both motion blur and stabilization at the same time:

These settings will keep stabilization working well by using a fixed shutter speed – which is the whole point of using an ND filter in the first place. Don’t just slap it on and be disappointed when it’s all shaky.

If you were wondering which exact ND filters I use: I got a collection of Freewell ND filters. But I’m only using the ND4 for MTB videos. ND8 just gets too dark most of the time for the settings I use. ND16 and 32 are basically unusable for me.

Quick guide on ND filters

They’re basically sunglasses for your camera, reducing the overall exposure (= everything gets darker). This is to allow lower shutter speeds, which make everything brighter.

This is the goal here as a slow shutter results in natural motion blur.

ND filters DO NOT change colors, increase contrast or increase saturation.

In other words: If you want awesome, cinematic motion blur, you need to have your shutter setting fixed at a slow setting. And ND filters allow you to do that without making everything too bright.

The only problem with action cameras is that you probably need them to stabilize. And their electronic image stabilization needs crisp (not blurred) frames. Bummer.

But now you don’t need to worry about that using the ND settings above 😉

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How to find your own style

Using these semi-manual settings above, the camera will only adjust the shutter speed and ISO automatically within the ranges you set.

Everything else is set in stone to produce exactly what you want every time you push record. Feel free to change some things around to find your style. Here are some pointers:

HDR: The new High Dynamic Range mode allows you to get evenly exposed footage even in high-contrast scenes with bright sunlight – like bright patches in between tree shades, very common in mountain biking.

For overcast days, or low-light filming I found the HDR look very unnatural. In either case, it has a particular look to it – see for yourself if you like it.

Color Profiles: Both Natural and Flat provide a natural look. Use GP-LOG only if you plan on color grading. It’ll look bland without any LUTs applied.

FOV: This is how you pull your viewers into the experience. Experiment to find your go-to Lens mode. But also keep in mind, that higher Hypersmooth settings reduce FOV. It’s a balancing act.

ISO: You may find that ISO 800 or even ISO 400 looks super rich as it prevents the camera from going too bright, resulting in deep, saturated footage. For overcast days or dark forests, 3200 might be the way to go.

Wind-noise reduction can make the audio sound overly processed. It also switches to a single mic. Avoid if you can. And try out a foam windscreen (“Windslayer“) if you want to high-quality wind-free sound.

If you need more detailed info, check out my complete GoPro 12 settings guide.

How to access PRO controls

If up to this point, you were wondering why you can’t find any of the settings I was talking about, here’s how you unlock every setting in your Hero 12:

In order to gain access to the full list of settings, you need to activate the PRO setting on the second page of the main menu. The unlocked video settings are accessed through the bottom menu of the main screen (viewfinder).

So, there you have it. That’s how you actually set up your GoPro 12 to capture cinematic videos. If you still can’t get enough and want to nerd out in-depth, be my guest.

Bonus tips and tricks

Reset: Format SD card after offloading all files

To be safe and prevent SD card errors, format it after pulling off all the files to your computer or hard drive. It’s not necessary, but good practice.

3×3 grid

This grid overlay is perfect not only to align the adhesive mounts on a helmet but also to find the perfect camera angle that captures the trail not just your front wheel.

Ideally, the trail and horizon should meet somewhere near the center. With the handlebars in the lower third, it makes the footage enjoyable and inviting to watch as the viewer can look ahead on the trail and also get a feel of how the bike’s handling.

Orientation lock: landscape or on

This auto-detect works well enough to not lock it completely. Landscape lock is generally the more useful option unless recording for 9:16 aspect ratios for short-form video platforms. Also recommended for easy swapping between helmet and chest mount where the cam is upside down.

Fullscreen: off

This has nothing to do with the recording format, only what’s displayed on the touch-screen finder. Both a 4:3 and 16:9 format will get cropped to fit “fullscreen” on the square screen.

Leave it off to be able to see the actual frame you’re recording including the peripheral space on either side. Especially in Superview and Hyperview, a lot gets lost in the preview when fullscreen is on.

Voice Commands: Hands-Off Control

For moments when you can’t reach for your camera, take a look at the voice commands. There is quite the list of controls to use.

Beeps: On

Leave these on as it’s the only indication for you of what the camera’s doing. Either starting to film, stopping recording or powering off. Each situation has its own beep signal. The volume can be turned lower or higher. Just don’t mute it or you’ll have no feedback without looking at it.

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